tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post6144349509631675000..comments2023-12-29T03:03:24.479-08:00Comments on Vote For David: Marlin Model 60 Trigger JobVoteForDavidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12023568715017061807noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-2856215086657751622012-12-20T00:17:21.396-08:002012-12-20T00:17:21.396-08:00Thank you for an excellent write up. I bought a u...Thank you for an excellent write up. I bought a used Glenfield 60 recently and when I took it to the range it jammed several times. Thanks to your write up I was able to give it a thorough cleaning and improve the trigger. It is still very heavy, (I decided against the hammer strut spring modification for now) but it seems nice and clean and now I know exactly what is happening at each stage of pulling the trigger.<br /><br />It's very exciting to be able to completely disassemble and reassemble my new rifle, thanks again.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16871901826540811599noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-63229384045242600872012-11-25T17:14:29.911-08:002012-11-25T17:14:29.911-08:00Regarding the Ejector Lifter Spring, I can only sa...Regarding the Ejector Lifter Spring, I can only say that it should be shaped as shown in the photos, and both ends should be positioned as shown when installed. Don't feel silly clicking the photos to show them full size and holding up your parts next to the screen. It is possible if the rifle has a zillion rounds through it that the spring could have lost its springiness, but I would be likely to suspect other things first.<br /><br />Even when we are talking about soft metalt, eventually moving parts wear on the contact points. If you have eliminated other possible causes, it could be that your geometry is too far-gone to be functional. I can't imagine used parts would be that expensive from some a sale on Gunbroker or at Numrich or similar sites. <br /><br />Absolute worst-case, the action is not the problem and your receiver has some problem.<br /><br />The easiest way I can think of to find out exactly what is wrong in your case is to find a rifle of similar vintage and start swapping parts. Second-easiest is to pose your questions to the super-knowledgeable people at RimFireCentral.<br /><br />Sorry for vague answers - it's hard to fix something you can't see and don't quite know what's wrong! Good luck and please report back if you figure it out.Vote For Davidhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12005777971571572894noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-80631459227412835572012-11-19T06:20:57.134-08:002012-11-19T06:20:57.134-08:00Excellent David - Thank You
Your photos triggered ...Excellent David - Thank You<br />Your photos triggered a different thought regarding my 'Jamming 60.'<br /><br />Questions: 1 - Ejector Lifting Spring and 2 - Left Extractor<br />1 - Ejector Lifting Spring<br />A) Should the 'Ejector Lifting Spring' be aligned (rest on top of?) the 'Feed Throat' or should it be bent slightly inward?<br />B) If it should be bent inward, how much should I bent it?<br /><br />2 - Could my left extractor be worn?<br />a) My left extractor looks 'rounded and worn' as opposed to the right extractor which looks more 'pointed' where it contacts (grabs) the rim of the shell.<br />b) My left extractor has less 'clearance' than the right extractor where they contact and grab the shell.<br /><br />My Marlin 60 jams EVERY shell regardless of ammunition style or brand (bought my 60 second hand for $45 from a seller who could not fix the jamming and was tired of the headaches - yes, I have cleaned, oiled, changed ammo).<br /><br />As sgt. Schultz said, "I know NOTHING!"<br /><br />Any advice would be helpful - thank you.Home Loanshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13408876417072237669noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-36262319925803859882011-11-27T18:29:38.366-08:002011-11-27T18:29:38.366-08:00i liked that ur post very well it's been a lon...i liked that ur post very well it's been a long time since i took 1 apart, and ur site was the only 1 i could find keep it up, i have many other guns and clean other peoples from time 2 time.PIAREDNECKhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14273202769409668284noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-7927589924011613292011-10-08T20:25:18.366-07:002011-10-08T20:25:18.366-07:00GREAT BLOG!!! I've used a few of the techniqu...GREAT BLOG!!! I've used a few of the techniques listed here. I used a grinder to take one of the rings off of the hammer spring. I used the spring from a ball point pen to make a new trigger spring. Trigger is much better pull already. Will work on the sear next. Thanks for all the great pics and details.jnosackahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17069123564389655553noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-85586939296702165412010-11-11T07:45:33.192-08:002010-11-11T07:45:33.192-08:00Thanks for the good info. I'm glad that you e...Thanks for the good info. I'm glad that you emphasized gun safety and making sure to check that all firearms are unloaded before doing anything with them. However, there's one safety step that I think you missed. It refers to this part of your post: "You may have to push surprisingly hard. If your rifle is like mine, the hammer spring will go flying across the room."<br /><br />Whenever you're assembling/disassembling a rifle that has springs under tension in it, there's the risk of them coming flying out at extremely high speeds, as you said. Unfortunately, small objects traveling at high speed are pretty much the perfect recipe for blinding you if they hit you in the eye (and you won't have enough reaction time to do anything about it). Thus it's always a good idea to put on the same pair of shooting glasses you wear at the range when doing any sort of work like this.Cyde Weyshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12946836540792942956noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-52079186544595810052010-08-19T15:41:41.793-07:002010-08-19T15:41:41.793-07:00Don, that could be a problem in the relative geome...Don, that could be a problem in the relative geometry of the parts inside the action. It is possible a trigger job could fix it, yes, but I wouldn't try to find that out the hard way. I recommend you get it fixed first, so that you are not trying to troubleshoot through multiple changes. <br /><br />I strongly recommend you visit <a href="http://rimfirecentral.com/" rel="nofollow">Rimfire Central</a> and ask the experts there to assist you in troubleshooting. They have a Marlin 60-specific subforum with helpful members with a deep reservoir of 60-related problem solving.Vote For Davidhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12005777971571572894noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-41780086459256657402010-08-18T19:34:56.830-07:002010-08-18T19:34:56.830-07:00Great write up, I will probably attempt it either ...Great write up, I will probably attempt it either way... But my question is- Will this work (or might it work) to fix an actual problem I have. My 60 will fire fine for the most part, but every 20 shots or so, the trigger will not "catch". So you shoot, release, attempt to shoot again... no clicky/no bangy. It seems if you release the trigger again, it usually fires fine the next try. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated! Thanks, Don.BillyKhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03896934218150993879noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-34510762425699873392010-01-20T22:06:10.375-08:002010-01-20T22:06:10.375-08:00Thanks a mill. Brother in Law doesn't clean h...Thanks a mill. Brother in Law doesn't clean his arms(slowly but surely bringing him around) His would fire one round, cycle, then you would have to recycle the action(dropping live round) to re-engage action. took it apart(had to drift away from the do not take apart instructions everywhere else. it had so much crud in it(think swamp mud) And along with the other post ahead, I had a pile of parts(And I was REAL careful as I took it apart) that was kind of daunting.<br /><br />Found the problem---drift pin in the hammer was pushed out, making enough play for the sear to "swing" in and not engage.<br /><br />Thanks for posting.Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13662423842094413843noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-42392440282773803172010-01-10T22:05:35.656-08:002010-01-10T22:05:35.656-08:00Crowell, I'm very glad I could help. You and ...Crowell, I'm very glad I could help. You and those like you are the reasons I go to the trouble. Thanks for speaking up.Vote For Davidhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12005777971571572894noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-34864444554198227882010-01-10T21:40:55.818-08:002010-01-10T21:40:55.818-08:00I had to replace a buffer. The simple instructions...I had to replace a buffer. The simple instructions said to remove the buffer pin.<br />That didn't work.<br />The next simplest instructions said remove all three pin clips and take the side plate off. Stuff disappeared, and I didn't even know what until I found your pictures.<br />The hammer spring flew across the room and the bridge hid under the stove, but now I knew what I was looking for.<br />I followed your pictures, got it all back together, and it actually fired. What a blessing!<br />Thanks,<br />TonyUnknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16175276517692704677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-89179932782202755752009-08-11T21:53:14.567-07:002009-08-11T21:53:14.567-07:00I also have a Marlin 795; needless to say, your wr...I also have a Marlin 795; needless to say, your write-up DID work on my rifle quite nicely.<br /><br />The disassembly was a bit confusing at first, as I had never taken the action apart completely. Aside from a few differences (the bolt release lever and the magazine sear disconnect) it was no problem to put back together after studying the diagrams and your pictures, along with staring blankly at the miniature pile of parts for a bit.<br />=P<br /><br />My trigger was okay from the factory but is much smoother and crisply now.<br /><br />Thanks a lot for the great guide!Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08983784381394576866noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-4466893867944682762009-05-26T09:47:44.057-07:002009-05-26T09:47:44.057-07:00If it was new, chances are slim but stranger thing...If it was new, chances are slim but stranger things have happened. Check the rim of the cartridge and see if it has the mark typically left by a good, solid strike.<br /><br />If the hammer is falling (by now you should be able to tell if it is or not) and the striker making a good solid hit, it should go bang.<br /><br />As an aside, you might want to just try again with another cartridge from a different lot.Vote For Davidhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12005777971571572894noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-80533306749385608682009-05-26T05:58:21.855-07:002009-05-26T05:58:21.855-07:00Did this on my marlin 795...
Had the rifle in a m...Did this on my marlin 795...<br /><br />Had the rifle in a million bits. Put it all back together, round in the chamber *Click* nothing...<br /><br />What are the chances that it was a duff round?!?! Works a dream and the horrible trigger is now much lighter and better than it was.<br /><br />Top write up and very very helpful.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-33225679787745168502009-02-27T22:06:00.000-08:002009-02-27T22:06:00.000-08:00You're welcome, and I'm glad you find it useful. ...You're welcome, and I'm glad you find it useful. You're not alone; this pretty quickly became my second most-popular post (after the SKS trigger job) and most of the views originate from search engines.<BR/><BR/>If I recall correctly, I used a pair of heavy duty cutting pliers on the SKS's hammer spring. You could use a pair of hoof trimmers (probably easier) or a hacksaw (just be careful not to nick the other coils). Basically, anything that will cut a 1/16" piece of spring steel will work.<BR/><BR/>Then sand the end of the spring flat so it will seat properly. The sanding may take some time due to the toughness of the steel.Vote For Davidhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12005777971571572894noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5090317387178527496.post-42373779245972360412009-02-27T08:04:00.000-08:002009-02-27T08:04:00.000-08:00David - this is an excellent write up. the picture...David - this is an excellent write up. the pictures make it so much easier to understand. <BR/><BR/>what tool is used for clipping the spring? (like you did on the SKS)<BR/><BR/>thanks!Matthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03885315218129313545noreply@blogger.com